Foosball Shots and Techniques

Strategy

Snake & Pull Shot Guides by Robert Uyeyama

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Rec.Sport.Table-Soccer  FAQ 6  (v 1.2-1.3) 
Snake and Pull — Long instructions
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Robert Uyeyama  (send comments/corrections to: 
                   uyeyama@hawaii.edu)
Snake shot: 12-06-96 (1.2)                  Pull Shot: 12-06-96 (1.3)

The latest version of this file is available at the table-soccer FTP site
at conrad.harvard.edu in /pub/table-soccer/foosball and at Rob’s Foosball 
Heaven web site at http://www2.hawaii.edu/~uyeyama/foosball.html

This FAQ is organized as follows:  There are two sections: Part I 
describes the Snake shot and Part II describes the Pull shot.  In each 
section, there are two sections.  Part a) Is a description of the shot 
for beginners.  Part b) Includes more details for intermediate players 
trying to perfect their shot and learn the different options of the shot.

This FAQ is _NOT_ intended to limit posts to R.S.TS; there are many 
players on R.S.TS who undoubtedly have good (better) advice above and 
beyond what is described here.  If anything, you may find this file to 
generate questions, such as clarifications of ideas.  This file is 
intended as a reference from which to _begin_ learning the shots, and you 
will find it helpful to have a hardcopy with you at the foosball table.  
Questions may also be mailed to the author.  Corrections and suggestions 
are always welcome, esp on the Snake section, which is still rough.

Happy Foosing!

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Part I  The Snake Shot (alias – Monkey Shot, Wrist Rocket, Rollover)
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a) BEGINNER SECTION:   If you haven’t seen this shot before, you should 
know that it’s currently the second most popular shot in competition; the 
shot is very fast (unraceable), and can go deadman in the push and pull 
directions.   Although the shot is less effective on many non-Tornado tables, it 
can still be a hard-to-stop shot.  If you are playing on a non-Tornado, make 
sure the 3-rod has recently been _well_ lubricated, or else the shot may 
be nearly impossible to execute.  Also consider using a “rubber” or a 
“grip” to increase the catch on your wrist to reduce soreness.

     BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE SHOT:  Front pin the ball with the middle man in 
the center of the table.  Then hold the rod’s handle on your inner wrist.  
From here rock the ball back and forth.  When you decide to shoot, roll 
the ball to either your left (push direction) or right (pull direction).  
Pull up on your arm, rolling the handle until you catch it in your 
fingers– this will spin the man backwards (counterclockwise over the top of
the rod), striking the ball into the goal.  The shot is legally not a spin because 
from the last point-of-contact to the contact point of the shot is just _under_ 
360 degrees; the follow through is legal as long as it too is under 360 
degrees and you don’t let go of the handle.

     SETTING UP THE FRONT PIN in the center of the table with the center 
3-man gives many people trouble; often, from a stationary ball in front 
of the center man, the attempt is made to repeatedly nudge the ball 
forwards by tiny amounts until it reaches the appropriate distance for a 
front-pin.  This method is time-consuming and you may lose the ball quite 
often, especially if it becomes a habit and you don’t concentrate every 
time.  (Note that on some older tables with a natural forward roll/warp, 
this method may work fine.)  Here is an alternate, commonly-used method:  
Bring the ball to either your near or far 3-man.  Pass it towards the 
center man.  Hold your center man stationary in a back-angled position 
(i.e. toes-back, head-forward).  The ball will then continue rolling and 
strike the front corner of the stationary center-man’s toe, causing it 
bounce off and roll forward, where it may be quickly pinned with the 
center man.  Adjust the pin so that it is at the CENTER of the field 
(center dot) because this shot’s key is that it can go towards the push 
or pull directions.

    THE GRIP: Now change the grip on your right hand so that your inner 
wrist is “holding” the handle by applying pressure to the four to five 
o’clock position of the handle, if you were to look at it straight on.  
Your palm should not be touching the handle, except perhaps the very 
outer part of the flesh near your wrist.  If using a Tornado, place your 
wrist so that the left edge of your wrist is snug with the narrow part of 
the handle; this will allow a faster spin and a faster shot in general.  For
 a push snake it may help to put more pressure on the left (far) side of 
your wrist; for a pull, try pressure your right (near) side.  
    The shot is this:  The pinned ball may be rolled laterally to the 
left or right, then you will pull your arm up, spinning the rod 
counterclockwise so that man will spin over the top and strike the ball 
into the goal.  Try it!

     O.K., you’ve tried it but it’s not that easy, is it?  It just 
doesn’t seem to work at first; don’t worry.  We’ll go through the 
motion piece by piece, then put it together into a single stroke.  Trying 
to do the whole shot at once is usually impossible in the beginning.

     1)  First from the front-pin position, practice simply shooting the ball 
in straight by lifting your arm up fast (i.e. no lateral motion for now).  
Remember, it’s important to catch the rod hard in your fingers.  This 
ensures: 1) A FAST spin (essential); and 2) A legal shot (illegal to 
let go of the rod).  Just practice hitting the ball straight (no angle) 
and hard as possible– later, even when you practice your Snake slowly, 
this spin/shot motion is always done as hard as possible.
   
    2)  The next problem is lack of lateral (horizontal) motion.  Many 
people learning the shot try to do the entire Snake “fast”, and end up 
not moving the ball sideways at all, and hitting it straight or missing 
the ball entirely.  In the beginning, practice this separately!

      Let’s practice the lateral motion separately:  hold the ball in the 
front-pin position using your inner wrist as described earlier.  Now, 
WITHOUT SHOOTING THE BALL, let’s see how fast you can move the ball 
laterally to the side wall.  Choose push or pull, and keep the ball’s 
path faithfully lateral, and see how fast you can move the ball.  Just let 
the ball bounce off of the side wall.  Also try the other direction (pull/push).  
(If this is difficult, first use your regular palm-grip rather than your 
wrist-grip and do the exercise;  once you’ve figured out the concept behind 
the rod and handle motion with your normal grip,  do it with your wrist.)  
Now, remember that _this motion_ is what you  need to do with your wrist 
when you combine it with the spin-shot to execute your complete snake 
shot– don’t ignore this part of your stroke; even a lightning-fast shot 
can’t cheat on the full motion.  You’ll probably ignore it anyways, but at 
least you’ll know what you did wrong…

    3) Okay, now you have the “spin” and the “lateral ball-roll”.  Put the 
two together, still in SEPARATE and distinct motions.  Choose where you 
wish to shoot the ball, and WAIT for the ball to roll laterally there 
before you spin/shoot: 1) Roll 2) pause 3) shoot.  Don’t ignore the 
pause.
    Trust me– especially if you are missing, do it in two separate 
motions even if it seems lame to you, because you will learn the timing 
and be able to move on to the single fluid motion required for the 
final fast version of the shot.  This is important, and that’s why I’ve 
just repeated it about five times (sorry).  When you get the hang of 
it, gradually smooth out the transition from the first motion to the 
second while keeping the overall timing the same.  Work toward getting 
the shot stroke into a single motion (with two components):
   Roll-then-Shoot.
    
   4)  But as soon as you have the shot in a single 
motion, _always_ practice it fast, never slowly.  Overlearning the slow 
version may hinder the time it takes to learn the timing necessary for 
the desired fast one.

    5) Finally, add a recoil as you do your spinning wrist-roll.  In other words, 
if you are executing a push snake, pull the rod hard as you spin.  If you are 
doing a pull snake, push the rod hard as you spin.  This will eliminate the 
problem of your shot going into the wall past the goal.

    6) Remember these points:   
          (*)  Fast lateral motion, 
          (*)  immediate hard spin afterwards
          (*)  a FAST spin catching the handle with your fingers, and
          (*)  recoil as you spin in the opposite direction of your shot.

    If you are then having trouble with one side and not the other 
(e.g. the pull-snake works, but not the push), think about which side 
of your inner wrist you are using: For a pull-snake you are probably 
pulling with the RIGHT side of your inner wrist; so, for the 
push-snake, be aware of that portion of your wrist, and push with it, 
or even switch to the left side of your wrist.  Also, be aware of your 
shoulder– the pull snake is easier if your shoulder is further from 
the table, and the push snake is easier if your shoulder is close to 
above the edge of the table.  Also be aware of having the left (far) edge of 
your wrist on the narrow part of the handle, and remember your recoil as 
you spin.

     7)     Now, for practice, put a defender on the two-man (lift the goalie 
rod and ignore it) directly in front of your front pin.  Make sure you 
can snake it both ways (push/pull).  This is a 1/2 ball-length snake, 
since you had to move the ball laterally about a 1/2 ball-length to 
clear the defender.  Move the defender a ball-length more to one side.  
Can you snake around it?  Try the mirror-image shot the other way.  
Congratulations, you have a legitimate snake-shot!

b)  INTERMEDIATE SECTION:  So you have a snake now.  What follows will 
be tips on: 1) mechanics of optimizing the shot  2) ways to practice 
the snake shot  3) philosophy toward shooting against a good defense.
    1)  mechanics of the shot.
    Remember what was described in b): the fast lateral motion of the 
ball, the essential fast spin, the grip on the narrow part of the 
handle, the pressure at 3 or 4 o’clock, choosing the left or right side 
of your inner wrist.  Make sure you do all of these.  Without the fast 
lateral motion, your shot will easily be raced; without the fast spin, 
your shot may not go straight and instead spray out to the wall; 
without using the narrow part of the handle, your spin may come too 
late, or too slow; without the pressure at 3 or 4 o’clock and choosing 
either your left or right side of your inner wrist, your shot will be 
erratic and inconsistent.  Also, if your lateral motion still isn’t 
working, remember to to rock the ball slightly in the pinned position 
so that you have an idea of how the ball is going to roll when you do 
your motion.  So, if you have any of these symptoms, work on the 
associated points first.
    Experiment with where you stand.  In a doubles game, make sure the 
defender backs up a little (& even pushes the rods away) to make room for 
you to stand in front of your five bar so that you have the appropriate 
posture to shoot the shot; If you do well in singles but not doubles, 
look where you are standing in singles, and take that space in doubles.  
Also, experiment with the direction you face, whether it is straight at 
your opponent, almost directly to your right, or somewhere in between.
    Experiment with your elbow angle; try bending it slightly 
(maintaining your 3 o’clock pressure on the handle) and pointing it out 
to your right (perpendicular to the rods).  Try varying the amount of 
pressure you put on the handle. Also, find a good position for the 
front-pin of the ball;  there is a good range of the distance your ball 
can be from your man and still be front-pinned– find the ideal 
distance and always use it.  Also experiment with your shoulder’s 
distance from the table.
    Finally, this last point is one of the most important:  There 
should be a “whip-like” motion to the shot, so that upon execution of 
the spin, the center man recoils back to the center dot.  This is the 
“recoil” and is essential for the execution of a very good (fast & long) 
snake.  This motion will be explained using the pull-snake as an 
example; for the push-snake simply consider the mirror-image.
    The best way to simply the idea (for the pull-snake), is to think 
of it as a “shoulder pull-then-push”.  Roughly, the “pull” corresponds 
to the lateral-ball-roll, and the “push” to the rollover/spin.
    As you begin the shot, your wrist pulls the rod, obviously.  Notice 
too, that your shoulder is also pulling– exaggerate this motion of the 
shoulder. Now the hard part:  As you are pulling with your wrist, begin 
to move your shoulder in the push direction.  Eventually this whip-like 
motion will reach your wrist, which will also begin to move (with the 
rod) in the push direction.  That’s all there is to it!  The really 
hard part is timing it so that the spin occurs just as you begin to 
push the rod with your wrist.  This is difficult at first because the 
spin must also occur where you want to shoot the ball, which is at or 
just after the second dot on a Tornado.  This motion helps the ball go 
straight (not out to the wall) into the goal even with a very fast, 
very long (laterally) snake shot.  Work on the timing so that the ball 
arrives where you want to shoot it just as the push-whip-motion reaches 
your wrist.  Set up your body before the shot so that your shoulder can 
do the pull-push motion, and remember again to catch the rod in your 
fingers.  Now practice:
    2)  For practice, go over everything in 1) as well as the beginner 
section.  Try to analyze what is going wrong, and then you should be 
able to figure out what part of your shot is lacking.  Especially 
practice the recoil.
    Once you have a good motion, all there is to do, is to see how 
fast, far, and consistent you can shoot.  Here’s how:
    We will set up longer and longer practice shots for you to make.  
Once you can shoot a certain-length’s shot fast and consistently, we 
will practice its mirror image, then move on to an even longer shot.
    Again, we’ll use the pull-snake example, but remember to practice 
the push-snakes just as much!  Lift the defending goalie, since we 
won’t be using it for these exercuses.  Set up the front-pin, and put 
the FAR 2-man (from your perspective) directly in front of the ball.  
To pull-snake around this man requires a lateral motion of 1/2 a ball 
length.  Now for the other extreme, pull the defending rod towards you 
all the way to the wall.  Now, to do a pull-snake around the same far 
2-man (i.e. the man not on the wall) requires a lateral motion of about 
2 1/2 ball lengths!  To do this shot fast and consistently is your 
eventual goal.  This shot is known as the dead-man shot, since the far 
2-man is “dead” and cannot move any further since the near 2-man is 
also “dead” against the wall.
    Note than on a non-Tornado, the goals are slightly smaller, so this 
deadman shot may be impossible– in this case, put your finger between 
the wall and the bumper next to the near 2-man– this one-finger shot 
should probably be your goal, i.e. going around the far 2-man in this 
position.
    Let’s begin with a “three-finger pull-snake”.  Put three of your 
fingers between the wall and the bumper next to the NEAR 2-man.  
(again, near to your perspective).  Pull snaking around the far 2-man 
is called the “three-finger” shot for obvious reasons.  This is 
practically identical to the first example with the defender directly 
in front of the front-pin– you must move the ball laterally about 1 
ball length.  If you can shoot this fast and consistently, move on to a 
“two-finger” shot.  Make sure that out of 5 shots, you are shooting 3 
or 4 fast and on-goal.  The shot should not be cutting back; it should 
be shot straight; the cut-back shot may look great, but it’s 
notoriously inconsistent to do fast, and practicing it may sabotage 
your “real” snake shot.  If you can do a two-finger shot, move to a 1 
1/2 finger, a 1 finger, a 1/2 finger, and eventually to deadman (0 
fingers).  
    Of course, make sure you can do all of this in the push direction 
too, or your shot will be basically useless.  Remember to do your 
shoulder pull-push (i.e. “recoil); your center man should recoil and 
come to rest at about the center dot.  To shoot a deadman shot you 
should strike the ball at just just past the second dot from the end; 
this is very important, and aiming for this second dot is often MORE 
accurate than “eyeballing” the deadman defense and aiming to shoot 
around it.  That’s it!  Just practice longer and longer shots in both 
pull and push directions, and always practice it fast, never slowly.
    3)  Trying the shot against a live defense is intimidating at 
first.  Many people will try to race you, especially at first.  The 
most common mistake is to concentrate on racing the defense, which 
results in shooting the spin too soon, while moving the ball a useless 
1/4 or 1/2 a ball length laterally.  Remember that your shot is fast, 
even though it seems slow when you are shooting on a live defense.  If 
you are at least medium-fast at shooting the snake, lateral distance is 
much more important than sheer speed.  Trust me.  Also, remember to 
vary your pull- and push-snakes, otherwise the defender will learn to 
guard only your preferred side.  And in practice, practice shooting the 
straight snake (i.e. no lateral motion), so that you know an open split 
when you see it; sometimes it looks closed but isn’t, so practice by 
setting up a smaller and smaller split and seeing if you can hit it.  
If you hit a straight split on a live defense, you’ll find that the 
pull- and push- holes will be more open the next time you shoot.
    Once you can race any set defense, people will begin using a moving 
defense on you.  Decide if it is upredictable or predictable.  If the 
motion is predictable, time it and shoot it in (straight if 
available, or push/pull if not).  Have a friend move the defense back 
and forth as fast as possible, just to see if you can time it and shoot 
it straight in.  Many defenses, may be predictable as to when one side 
(push or pull) will open up.  Get set up to shoot that hole, and just 
wait for it to open. 
    However, a good moving defense will fool you this way; you will  
expect a hole to open and shoot it, but the defense will already be 
there,  and stay stationary as the ball is shot straight into the 
waiting man.  A good  moving defense may set up your expectations, 
predict your reaction time, then offer a hole then close it– i.e. the 
hole will be closed as or before you begin to shoot, differing from a 
race defense where the race you to the hole after they see you begin to 
shoot– sometimes you wil be fooled into shooting at a hole that never 
opened fully at all! With this kind of a defense, simply sit on the 
ball; under regulation play, you have 15 seconds per rod, and if you 
took 2 or three seconds setting up the shot, you still have more than 
10 seconds before you shoot. This way, the defense will find it very 
hard to bait you and to predict your reaction time, since he will not 
know which hole you are looking at. Hence, if you just wait out a 
couple of “obvious” holes, your shooting percentage will be higher. 
    Sometimes a moving defense will be very fast, and very 
unpredictable. Here, try to study an patterns in openings– is the 
straight shot frequently open? Or is the pull more open than the push? 
Figure it out then try your best. If you get very good at the snake 
shot, you will begin to see all of the holes as they open, but most 
average shooters pick a hole then simply wait for it to open. Shooting 
against a moving defense is very intellectual, and is sometime a 
psychological game with the defender. Try to develop these analytic 
skills, and try to play a variety of people with a variety of snake 
defenses– go to new playing locations and new tournaments, and as you 
encounter more defenses, your shot will become better. Along the way, 
you will naturally develop a good snake defense too! Happy shooting! 

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The Pull shot (alias the “Hammer”)
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a)  FOR BEGINNERS:  If you’ve never seen the pull shot, here is the 
rationale:   It can be shot VERY fast, fast enough to race a stationary 
defense to any hole which is available.  In other words, if the defense is 
blocking the straight shot and any direct angle, simply move the ball around 
the defenders, and shoot it straight in.  When you practice the shot, you 
are practicing to get the maximum speed at maximum lateral momement. 
You will even practice the straight shot and a short pull to the middle of 
the goal.

However at the very first stages of learning the shot, the most common 
mistake, like with the Snake shot, is to shoot the ball too soon in an 
attempt at speed without actually completing the full lateral movement. 
The speed comes from completion of the entire shot stroke as fast as 
possible, not by short-cuts. 

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE PULL SHOT:
    Push your three bar *all the way* to the far wall, and place the ball on 
the right side of the center man. This is the starting position, or 
“pull setup.”
    From here, you pull the rod and the ball laterally toward you. As 
the ball moves laterally across the playfield, the center man lifts, 
accelerates, moves behind the moving ball, then shoots it straight in. 
The ball’s path from start to finish is roughly “L”- shaped.
    If the defense is covering the straight and angle shots from the 
setup-position (the left side of the goal), this L-shape must be long 
enough to go around the defense men to the “far” hole (right corner of 
the goal).

NOTES ON  BALL SETUP:   The rod begins from a maximally-pushed 
position. Any less than that, and you are handicapping yourself by 
giving the defender less goal to defend, and a better chance to block 
your shot; this is often ignored by beginners learning the shot and by 
intermediates with less tournament experience.   To put 
the ball in this ideal starting position next to the man can be tough.  
One can repeatedly nudge the ball until eventually it is set-up.

This is fine, but in regulation play you have only 15 seconds to set-up and 
shoot the ball, so there is a faster method:  push the ball with the 
near 3-man so that it is lightly passed to the center man.  As the ball 
reaches the (right edge of the) center man, push the rod gently so you 
slowly decelerate and “cushion” the ball to a stop at or very near to 
the ideal set-up position. Make any minor adjustments as necessary.

    HOW TO SHOOT:      Right now when practicing the shot, simply place 
the ball in the correct starting position by hand, and don’t bother 
wasting your practice time setting the ball up; concentrate on the 
shooting part.  Place a defending two-man directly in front of the ball 
(leave the goalie rod lifted up).  Always begin the shot stroke with 
the center 3-man touching the ball; if you start not touching the ball, 
your shot will be unpredictable (because of the small bounce upon 
contact), especially later when you practice your fast and long pull 
shots. Now, do the shot very very slowly in two _separate_ motions:
    1) Pull the rod so that the ball moves past the defender.
    2) Lift your man, and quickly move it behind the rolling ball, and 
shoot it in. Do “1)… pause… 2)” with a BIG pause for now.
    Now that you get the general idea, try to do it in a _single_ fluid 
motion, so that you are lifting your man AS you pull the ball; still 
keep it slow for now.  You will in essence be “tracing” the rear 
outline of the ball– you begin at the ball’s left side, a you pull 
(never losing contact with the ball), you lift your man to trace the 
rear curve of the ball, and when you reach the direct rear of the ball, 
you shoot it in with a wrist flick.  Remember that since the man you 
set the ball in motion with is also the eventual shooter, you must 
ACCELERATE and go even faster to get behind the moving ball to shoot 
it! You may find that practicing with a SLOW acceleration period at the 
beginning of the shot makes it MUCH easier to learn the motion.  
However once learned, replace eliminate this slow acceleration and 
execute the entire stroke quickly.
    POINTERS:
    1) Lift your man as you pull.  (described above)
    2) Push the rod as you shoot, so the entire stroke is like a “J”, 
        or “hook” shape.
    3) At the end of the stroke, always shoot the ball as hard as you 
        can.
    4) Once you learn the motion, practice the shot fast or not at     all.  
        Eventually the entire pull shot motion should eventually be 
        done in the space of a quarter-second or even less!  Can you 
        even make a “J”-stroke that fast with the rod yet?

    [If you don’t know how to wrist-flick (shoot hard):    You should 
have a fairly good wrist-flick to do this shot. In other words, you 
should be able to hit a stationary ball hard with your man. If you 
can’t do this yet, practice this:  hold the handle with your right 
hand, then ignore your hand, but don’t let go.  Just think about your 
wrist. Try to “throw” it as hard as you can in the down direction 
toward the floor past the handle; your wrist doesn’t hit the floor 
because obviously it is attached to your arm and hand. Since your hand 
is tightly holding the handle, the motion will stop abruptly just as 
you lock your wrist joint.  This is the wrist flick.  Practice this 
motion fast and hard, and you will notice that the men on the rod will 
hit any ball quite hard. Remember to stand a little to your left, away 
from the rod, to give your arm and wrist good leverage. Even if it 
doesn’t seem to help, keep practicing, and you will soon get it by 
practicing.]
    Practicing a LONGER SHOT:   Now we’ll practice pulling the ball 
farther laterally (horizontally).  In the exercise above, you hit the 
pull shot by going around a defender sitting directly in front of the 
ball’s set-up.  This time bring (pull the 2-rod toward your right) the 
defender toward you an inch or so.  Practice pulling and shooting 
around this position consistently; your lateral motion must be longer.  
Once this is easy, move the defender farther out. Eventually, put the 
defender in the center of the table, and practice pulling _around_ it.

    Advice on this “longer” shot:  Although the shot is one fluid 
motion, it still contains two components; remember not to _shoot_ the 
ball until it you have _pulled_ it past the defender you have set up.  
This seems obvious, but it often is a problem when practicing speed on 
a long shot.  Try tracing the shot stroke without the ball at the 
desired speed.  Also try choosing the point on the playing field where 
you will shoot the ball from– then keep your eyes on this point and 
execute your pull, shooting only when the _ball_ _reaches_ _this_ _
point_. In other words, keep your eyes on the playing field, not on 
the ball nor on the defense (for practice).
    “Final advice”:          The following advice on the pull is very, 
very important: At the point when you shoot the ball, the ball should 
be slightly behind the rod. Why? If the ball is slightly forward, the 
shot tends to angle outwards and hit the wall to the right of the goal. 
Having the ball slightly towards the back helps the ball shoot straight 
in (by keeping the “angle” in the L-shape 90 degrees or less– this is 
known as “squaring off” your shot as opposed to “spraying” it).

b) FOR INTERMEDIATES:  The intermediate pull shot section will be 
divided into three parts: 1) mechanics of the pull shot; 2) practicing 
the pull shot 3) options against a live defender.
    1) MECHANICS OF THE PULL SHOT, general advice:          Again, 
practice everything in a) smoothly and FAST. Remember especially to 
have the ball slightly in back of the rod when you shoot. Also remember 
to have a shot that the opponent can’t predict when it is coming; hence 
don’t give it away with a slow accleration period at the beginning of 
your pull, and don’t give it away by always shooting it after a 
consistent amount of time has elapsed after you’ve setup the ball (i.e. 
don’t do:  setup, one, two, shoot… “a 2-second pull”).  Always begin 
the pull motion as fast as possible, and always practice developing a 
faster pull-shot motion, sometimes by tracing your shot stroke without 
a ball. 
    Other things you can do:   Use your third and fourth fingers mainly 
when you wrist flick to shoot the ball.  Also, you can experiment with 
the starting position (backwards or forwards) of the ball; just 
remember if you start it forward to “lift” the ball (by lifting your 
man) backwards as you pull it so that it is in a slightly 
behind-the-rod position when you shoot it. 
    On standing:          Your stance can matter:  try standing with 
your weight on either leg, and try facing your body to the right or 
diagonally between your opponent and your right.  Remember to stand to 
your left slightly so that the 5-bar is near the middle of your body so 
that your arm has the correct leverage; ask your defenseman to step 
back and push his rods out of the way if necessary.  Vary your 
shoulder’s distance from the table.  Your goal is to find the optimum 
way of standing and holding the rod so that your “recoil” for your long 
pull is smooth.
    Recoil, the most important thing:           What is “recoil”, and 
why is it so important?  The idea is to train your arm motion to be the 
smoothest and fastest “whip”-motion, the end of the “J”.  The reason is 
to improve your accuracy by squaring your shot off when you shoot a 
very long pull as fast as you can.  This is what happens to the 
foosball table: as you shoot the ball after pulling it, the rod is 
PUSHED so that your center man ends up near the center dot at the end 
of your motion.
    How to develop recoil:          Your entire arm should feel like a 
whip and the “crack” of the whip (at your elbow and wrist) coincides 
with the shooting of the ball. This means you begin the reversal of the 
whip-motion _before_ you shoot, i.e. as you are pulling.  You can think 
of this motion as a shoulder & elbow PUSH which you begin as soon as your 
wrist begins the PULL motion.  This push motion will travel down your 
arm like a whip and reach your wrist, which will then also begin moving 
in the push direction. This is when you should shoot the ball; this is 
also the “cracking of the whip.”  Learn to time the entire shot motion 
so that the ball and man are in the correct position to shoot your long 
shot just as your wrist snaps the recoil.  Thinking of violently 
“throwing” your elbow in the push direction as you simultaneously pull 
with your wrist may help– other players think of lifting the elbow 
outwards so that it has leverage to snap the arm forward, somewhat like 
a karate punch.
    The other important part of recoil is body positioning.  You must 
be standing so that your arm is free to snap back and forth smoothly.  
Hold the 3-rod handle and try the recoiling whip-motion back and forth 
repeatedly, without a ball and not even pretending to shoot.  The 
motion should not be awkward and should be very fluid even if you 
continue to whip back and forth.  Find a good stance so that your arm 
is free to do this.  You can experiment with standing lower, or more to 
your left, and make sure your right shoulder is not too close to the 
table.

    2) PRACTICING THE PULL-SHOT– a list of exercises:
          Concentrate on shooting three primary pull options flawlessly.  (If 
you think you’re flawless, try shooting as many of that option as you can in 
1 minute and see how you do under the strain.  Can you get in a groove?  Can 
you do 10 out of 10?)  The three options are: long, middle, and straight.  
Even straight is important, otherwise a smart defender will leave straight 
slightly open and bait you long, where you may want to shoot since it’s may 
seem more impressive to you.  The defender is cheating and you’ll be left 
wondering how they blocked your long and middle.  Don’t fall for it. Have a 
kickass straight, and after you hit it a few times, your long or middle will 
be wide open next time.

STRAIGHT SHOT PRACTICE:
You can learn when the straight shot is just a few millimeters open… some 
defenders won’t even think it’s open!  You may not, unless you read this:  Set 
up for a perfect pull by pushing your rod all the way to the far wall.  Lift the 
defending goalie.  Set the defending two-bar as follows: ignore the far 2-man 
by your setup for now, and place the near 2-man so that its near edge is flush 
with the near edge of the white painted goal line which leads into the goal.

FAR <——————————————————-> NEAR

|=======================XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX======================|
|                       |                 |                      |
| —————————————————oo———-|
|                       |                 |                      |
|                       |—————–|                      |
|                                                                |
| ————————OO————-@@———————-|
|                                                                |
|                                                                |
| -OO—————–OOb————–OO————————|-#####
|                                                                |

Now pull the 2-rod a little bit nearer so that the near edge of the near 2-man is 
just past the outside edge of the goal line by 1/8 of an inch.  The straight shot is 
open.  Try it, and shoot slowly and very carefully if you need to.  Now adjust the 
2-man so it is 1/2 inch beyond the outside of the white line.  This shot is 
****wide**** open.  Now you know.  Even 1/4 inch is wide open.  Practice 
diligently at 1/8 or 1/4 of an inch past the line.  You may need to sweep with 
a push recoil on your shot to avoid spraying it into the far 2-man.  Can you hit 
10 out of 10 at 1/4 inch?  1/8 inch?   Of course, during a real game, now you 
must have a perfect pull setup to take advantage of this fraction of an inch!

          LONG SHOT PRACTICE:
Yes, the pull-shot can be done deadman. (or on a non-Tornado, a one-finger 
pull should be possible).  For this set of exercises, lift the goalie 
rod and ignore it.  Begin by positioning the _far_ defending 2-man 
(i.e. the one on _your_ left) at the center dot, and see how 
consistently you can shoot your pull _around_ this defender (i.e. your 
shot should be going _between_ the two men on the 2-rod). Once you 
begin to hit 4 out of 5 shots fast and into the goal, pull the 
defending 2-rod toward you by a finger width or so and try again. This 
will probably be a three finger-widths (3 FW) shot. (This means the 
distance from the wall to the 2-rod’s bumper on your right is about 
three finger widths).  Practice again until you can accurately shoot 4 
out of 5 shots.  Then continue progressing to smaller and smaller FW. 
Once you get to 2 FW, progressive by 1/2 FW increments. A fast 2 FW 
shot is a fairly good shot, and a 1 FW shot is a very good shot, but 
continue practicing, all the way up to deadbar (i.e. 0 FW; the 
defending 2-rod is up against the wall; the bumper is touching the 
wall; the man is “dead” since it can move no farther).

    If you don’t believe a deadbar pull can be done:          Try this 
exercise, which is done _slowly_:  Set the pull setup with the ball 
slightly _forward_.  Lift the man against the ball as you pull SLOWLY, 
causing the ball to roll laterally at a slight _backwards_ angle; 
eventually the ball will roll to be slightly in back of the rod.  As 
the ball is rolling, lift the man and pull the rod (almost) completely 
to the wall.  Wait for the ball to reach you.  As the ball reaches you 
(or on a Tornado reaches the point between the 1st and 2nd dots), shoot 
the ball hard as you PUSH the rod– hence you’re brushing the ball in 
the push direction with the front surface of your toe as you shoot. 
Remember the the ball must be FAR back when you shoot, almost so far 
you can back-pin it.  Doing this fast is much harder, but this should 
help give you a clue how to do it; to shooting it fast, hitting the ball 
at the extreme point, and the push-recoil and the backwards ball 
position are essential, as is shooting the ball accurately between the 
first and second dots.

If you are up to practicing your 1 fingerwidth to deadbar shot, and 
working on speed try this method, which is a modified version of an exercise 
described by Todd Loffredo.  You can setup a 1 FW defense with the 2-bar if 
you want.  Then place the ball between the first and second near dots on your 
3-rod.  You will practice shooting the ball in without actually pulling the ball.  
Set the rod up for a normal pull except tilt the men back up so that your near 
3-man doesn’t disturb the ball you just placed by the first two dots.  Have a 
very loose grip concentrating on your fourth and fifth fingers.  Now pull the rod 
as fast as you can and snap the ball in as hard as you can, again concentrating 
on the fourth and fifth fingers only.  Don’t worry about recoil, and just hit it 
as hard as you can straight in.  See how many you can hit in in 30 seconds.  
Can you shoot 10 out of 10?  Now try the same motion with a regular setup 
where you start with the ball on your far 3-man, and use the same loose grip, 
extra-fast pull, and hard snap between the 1st and 2nd dots.

          PRACTICING YOUR MIDDLE SHOT
Try the same motion from the last paragraph from “practicing your 
long shot.”   Think of your arm and fist, and pull in and push out like a punch in 
one motion as fast as you can.  In other words, as soon as you’ve started to think 
of moving the ball, you should already begin your hit/push-recoil.  This shot 
should be absolutely unraceable.  Practice going around the 2-man but threading 
the shot so that it doesn’t spray into the nearby goalie man; set up a tight shot 
corridor that you can hit a straight through, and practice it diligently with your 
middle pull.  Remember that your push-recoil is the most important here… 
concentrate on the push-ending rather than the pull-beginning.  Continue until you 
are 10 out of 10, or can do a decent number in a 60-second “shoot as many as 
you can” groove test.

PRACTICING FOR REAL TOURNAMENT PLAY
You must be proficient at all three options.  If you can hit any hole 
reliably, you will keep the defense guessing.  If you burn a long, the straight may 
be open the next time around, or vice-versa, as they try to protect the shot you 
just hit.  Conversely, if your previous shot looks good again (wait a full 10 seconds 
to be sure) and the defense just isn’t learning, shoot the same shot over and over, 
even if it’s the straight.  Be careful about giving away your shot by tensing your 
arm or your shoulder, or dropping your elbow.  Also be careful about shooting after 
a predictable amount of time has elapsed, for example 3 seconds: setup wait 3 shoot; 
setup wait 3 shoot; setup wait 3 shoot.  If this happens the defense can open a hole 
wait almost 3, and close it, and your fastest shot is blocked by the defense’s brains.  
Be smart, and vary the time between your setup and shot execution.  Use your full 
10-15 seconds often to get a good look at the moving defense; otherwise you may 
be falling into for a defensive timing bait.  Sometimes shoot just after or during 
your setup.

    3) OTHER SHOT OPTIONS:          In general you should be able to race a 
moving defense, and especially a set-defense, to the far post. If the 
defender begins on the far post, the split (center) or straight shot 
should be open. If you can’t race them to these holes, you should 
practice your shot speed, rather than relying on tricking your opponent 
with too many “shot options”.
    Your main options will be the hairline-accurate straight shot or the 
very-long shot, so continue practicing your long-pull until you can 
reliably hit the dead-man pull, or more realistically for non-pros, a 
one-finger pull.  Practicing the straight shot so that you are 
confident in shooting it every time the hole opens by even 1/8 of an inch of 
the near 2 man past the outside of the white goal line (see above, PRACTICING 
THE STRAIGHT SHOT).

    These other options are for those times you have a “slow” day, or encounter 
a defense which can usually stop you for some reason, or for variety on 
non-tournament nights, or a tricky option to show off.  The options described 
will be:  brush-split, the dead-man “straight,” and various fakes.  Remember 
these are mostly tricks and not the essentials needed for tournament wins.

    BRUSH-SPLIT (SLICE):  This shot is an angle shot used especially 
when the defender uses his far 2-man (the one farthest from the ball’s 
setup) to guard “long” and the goalie to guard “short”.  The angle shot 
between the two men are open.  Instead of chipping a sharp angle shot, 
which tends to be inaccurate at high speeds, you will brush-down 
(pull-brush) the back of the ball with the front of your man’s toe.  
The resulting spin will angle the ball correctly, your control of the 
shot will be great with practice, and to the opponent the brush 
movement looks misleadingly like a genuine attempt at a pull.  You can 
vary the aim of your angle, but in general you can aim somewhere near 
the far post by aiming at the receding edge of the moving two-man who 
is guarding long.  This is also called a “slice”.
    If you don’t know what a “brush-down” is:  The idea is that you put 
spin on the ball which causes it to roll at an angle.  The spin is 
created by scraping the back of the ball gently but _as fast as you can_
with the front of your man’s toe.  An _extremely_ subtle wrist flick 
will help improve velocity as well as the severity of the angle.
    FAKES AND VARIATIONS:  If your pull isn’t fast enough to beat the 
defense try fakes now, and practice a faster shot later. A “lift” fake 
is when you suddenly lift the man, not touching the ball, hoping for 
the defense to flinch, opening the straight shot. A “roll” fake is when 
you lift the man and brush the ball slightly backwards (but not very 
far laterally), hoping for the defense to flinch from the straight 
shot; the “roll” fake is often effective if the defense has seen too 
man lift-fakes and is simply waiting for the ball to move :). A far-man 
fake is like a lift fake except you lift the man and pull the rod all 
the way, not touching the ball, and shooting the straight shot in with 
the far man. Also, you can do a lift fake then immediately do your real 
far-post pull shot as the defender is recovering from flinching; this 
is often very effective when the defender is successfully racing you to 
the far post. The next fake-variation is most satisfying at the end of 
this series:  First do a fast far-post pull and “burn” the defense 
(i.e. race them successfully). Now, since the defense is expecting a 
fast, long pull, for your next shot do the far-man fake, and shoot the 
straight shot in with the far man as they flinch. Now, they will be on 
guard for this far-man fake, so do this:  lift your center man and pull 
the rod as if attempting another far-man fake; the defense will not 
flinch from the straight shot. But as the far-man approaches the ball, 
instead of shooting the straight shot, kick-pass it laterally to the 
center man, who is waiting to shoot it into the far post. 
    DEADMAN STRAIGHT SHOT:  This is for when the defense is using the 
near 2-man (from your perspective; on your right) to guard 
the short pull instead of the other 2-man.  For practice, simply have 
the defense pull its 2-rod to the wall (push to your left from your 
point of view).  You will find that hitting the straight shot is barely
impossible from the pull setup.  If only you could move the ball a 
little to the left!  Here’s how to do it:  Very gently but quickly 
PUSH-brush the back edge of the ball, then immediately PULL-brush as 
you shoot.  This will cause the ball to move slightly to the left, 
clearing the dead man, then angle in toward the near post of the goal.
    Other pull setup variations include: 1) pull the ball, but don’t 
shoot it. Instead pass it from the near three-man back to the center 
man, who shoots it straight in from the original starting position. 2) 
pull the ball, go around to its right side and execute a push shot. 3) 
shoot a bank shot from the pull set-up position. 4) shoot an unexpected 
pull to the far post while apparently cushioning your ball to the pull 
setup.

    PULL SHOT PSYCHOLOGY:  Just consider what the defense is thinking, 
and shoot appropriately.  If they are insistent on an ineffective 
race-defense, stick with your long shot.  If you have just hit a split 
shot to the middle, they may be more cautious next time about the 
middle, leaving the long or straight open again.  And above all don’t 
underestimate the  straight shot, for it will be there more often than you 
think, especially if you have practiced the 1/8 inch straight. 
     Also, don’t let the defense out-think you.  If you are suddenly being blocked 
consistently, examine yourself.  Are you ignoring the straight?  Are you 
shooting a pull 3-seconds after your setup every time?  Are you giving away 
your shot motion by your shoulder dropping?  Remember to use your full 15 seconds…

    SUMMARY:  To begin getting a good competitive “tournament” shot, 
simply master the FAST far post pull and the straight shot, and later, the split 
shot..  The brush-split (slice) is also moderately important. The roll 
fake may also come in handy for a point at the most. The other 
variations and fakes are only if your pull shot isn’t performing, or 
you just wish to show off.

Historia del futbolin

Los origenes del futbolin hay que buscarlos en la creacion de los primeros futbolines ya que como es evidente no puede existir el juego, sin un futbolin donde poder jugar.

Aunque existen patentes anteriores que hacen referencia a juegos de mesa con parecidos a los futbolines tal y como los conocemos hoy, no fue hasta el 14 de octubre de 1922 cuando Harold Searler Thorton patento en Gran Bretaña el primer futbolin, patente que fue aceptada el 1 de noviembre de 1923 con el numero 205991.

Es por ello por lo que se considera a Harold Searler Thorton el inventor del futbolin, o al menos el futbolin como lo conocemos en la actualidad.

Se dice que a Harold Searles se le ocurrio la idea tras haber visto un partido de futbol, y el concepto era poder jugar al futbol en el interior de casa. Al parecer la inspiracion le vino jugando con una caja de cerillas, en la que atravesando el interior de la caja con cerillas de madera es facil imaginar la creacion de futbolin.

Pocos años despues un tio estadounidense de Harold que visito el Reino Unido, registro la primera patente en Estados Unidos a su vuelta, y esta fue realizada por Louis P. Thornton residente en Portland (Oregon) el 23 de diciembre de 1925 y fue registrada con el numero 77210, aunque no fue aceptada hasta el 25 de Enero de 1927 con el numero 1615491. El autor de esta patente describia su invento como un juego de futbol interior. En este grafico de la patente original puede observarse que este futbolin tiene el aspecto de los futbolines actuales, con una disposicion de 1 portero, 2 defensas, 5 mediocampos, 3 delanteros (1,2,3,5,5,3,2,1).

patente futbolin

Ademas algunos autores diferencian entre el creador del primer futbolin de una pierna de que ya hemos hablado, y el futbolin de 2 piernas que por lo general solo se usa en España y Latinoamerica.

Alexandre de Fisterra, un español nacido en Galicia fue este otro primer creador (en este caso de los futbolines de 2 piernas) que registro su invento en 1937, aunque el diseño de este futbolin nunca ha podido ser verificado ya que segun el autor este perdido la patente original en una tormenta. Alexandre en 1937 debido al triunfo franquista, se refugio en Francia, para posteriormente viajar a Latinoamerica donde comenzo a difundir su invento.

Organizaciones

En el año 2002 se creo en Francia la Federacion internacional del Futbolin, cuya denominacion original es la ITSF (International Table Soccer Federation). Su mision es la de promocionar el ju

Tipos de futbolines

 

Tipos de futbolines

 

En la actualidad hay varios tipos de futbolines, y entre ellos existen diferencias en distribucion de los jugadores, en la forma y material de los muñecos o jugadores y en menor medida en el tamaño del futbolin.

Tamaño del futbolin

Lo mas comun es que mida 120 cm de largo por 61 cm de ancho, lo que corresponde a 4 pies por 2 pies en la medida inglesa.

Distribucion de los jugadores

Todas las mesas cuentan con 8 barras de metal en las que se colocan a los jugadores, pero la distribucion y el numero de los mismos tambien varia, aunque independientemente de su distribucion suelen ser como en el futbol 10 jugadores por equipo mas un portero.

La distribucion de los muñecos suele poderse modificar cuando se quiera ya que la mayoria de mesas ya vienen con las barras perforadas para poder utilizar diferentes combinaciones.

A continuacion puede verse al configuracion internacional oficial, junto con la del futbolin de 2 piernas y sus variantes mas tipicas

posiciones jugadores futbolin

Forma de los jugadores

La principal diferencia en la forma estaria en si tienen una pierna o dos, pero dejando a un lado al futbolin de dos piernas, los primeros pueden tener diversas formas, modificado las posibilidades de juego, o al menos dificultado su actuacion.

Materiales

El material de los muñecos tambien es bastante variable. Los mas tipicos en España estan hechos de madera (1 pierna) y metal (2 piernas), pero tambien existen de plastico o fibra de carbono.

Personalmente prefiero los jugadores clasicos de madera, que si bien es cierto que se desgastan mucho mas, tambien es uso les da ciertas formas que facilita la realizacion de alguna jugadas como los tiros en vertical o la guarra.

Ademas el sonido que producen los tiros es mas autentico, y en cuanto a este punto el sonido metalico de los de metal me resulta bastante desagradable, no obstante seguro que a otros personas que hayan crecido jugando con los jugadores metalicos, tendran un percepcion totalmente diferente.

Tipos de bola

Las bolas de los futbolines pueden ser de muy diferentes materiales, y segun el utilizado se pueden realizar algunas jugadas y la velocidad de la bola tambien varia. Algunos de estos materiales son madera, plastico, metal, marmol y corcho.

Modelos de futbolines oficiales

Estos son las marcas y modelos de los futbolines que se usan para los campeonatos internaciones y los torneos oficiales creados por la Federacion Internacional de Futbolin (ITSF).

Bonzini – Estilo Frances
Garlando – Estilo Italiano
Roberto Sport – Estilo Italiano (1,2,3,5,5,3,2,1) (mesa oficial de la federacion española)
Tecball – Estilo Aleman
Tornado – Estilo Americano (3,2,3,5,5,3,2,3) y jugadores de plastico.

Otras marcas de futbolines populares

Ademas de las marcas que han sido elegidas por la ITSF y que en la actualidad son aptas para el juego de campeonatos existen infinidad de otros modelos y marcas, siendo algunos de los mas populares los siguientes (Kicker, Deutscher Meister, Warrior, Leonthart, Fireball, Rosengart, Smoby…)

Tischfußball-Kicker

Tischfußball 

Tischfußball ist eine Sportart, die auf einem Spielgerät gespielt wird, das Kicker, Kickertisch, Tischfußball(tisch), Kickerkasten oder auch Wuzzler genannt wird. Ziel des Spiels ist es, mit an drehbaren Griffstangen über einer rechteckigen Spielfläche angebrachten (Fußball)spielerfiguren (aus Holz, Kunststoff oder Metall), eine oft vorgegebene Anzahl von Bällen ins gegnerische Tor zu schießen. Spielfläche und Anordnung der Spielfiguren sind dabei dem Fußballspiel nachempfunden. Ein Kickertisch hat normalerweise je 4 Griffstangen an den beiden Längsseiten der Spielfläche, an denen jeweils 11 Spielfiguren verteilt angebracht sind. Kickertische werden häufig in Gaststätten aufgestellt. Heute findet man sie auch als Spiel- und Sportgerät in vielen Wohn- und Kinderzimmern

 

Geschichte des Tischfußballs [Bearbeiten]

Man geht davon aus, dass der erste Tischfußballtisch (in Europa) von dem Franzosen Lucien Rosengart entwickelt wurde. Rosengart war damals ein Mitarbeiter des Automobilherstellers Citroën. In Anlehnung an diesen „Urtisch“ (bei dem die Stangen noch an den Kopfenden waren) baute die schweizerische Firma „Kicker“, sesshaft in Genf, ihre Tische. Die Tische waren in der Schweiz, in Deutschland und Belgien so beliebt, dass das Wort „Kicker“ in Deutschland zum Synonym für Tischfußball wurde. In der deutschsprachigen Schweiz werden die Tische umgangssprachlich „Töggelikasten“ genannt, in Österreich oft „Wuzzler“, gelegentlich auch „Wuzzlkasten“. Das erste Patent auf einen Kickertisch sicherte sich der Spanier Alejandro Finisterre im Jahre 1937.

Eine andere Theorie besagt, dass Tischfußball dazu verwendet wurde, um die Hand-Augen-Koordination von verletzten Soldaten zu rehabilitieren.

Belegbare Patente weisen einen Engländer als Erfinder des Tischfußballs aus: Harold S. Thornton meldete am 14. Oktober 1922 ein Gerät mit Drehstangen beim Patentamt an. Sogar der grobe Aufbau des Urtisches entspricht den heutigen Tischen. Allerdings dauerte es weitere 30 Jahre, bis sich das Spiel auch in Deutschland etablierte. Erst im Jahre 1967 wurde die erste Deutsche Meisterschaft durch eine Initiative der Bildzeitung ausgetragen. Zwei Jahre später wurde der DTFB gegründet.

Maßgeblich für die Entwicklung des ambitionierten Tischfußballsports in Deutschland war vor allem der Automatenvertrieb Löwen, dessen langjähriger Lieferant Leonhart ist. Löwen veranstaltete in den 1980er und 90er Jahren eine überregionale Turnierserie in Deutschland, die auch viele Topspieler aus den Nachbarländern anzog und deren jährlicher Höhepunkt die so titulierten „Deutschen Meisterschaften“ in Bingen, dem Hauptsitz von Löwen, war. 2000/2001 zog sich Löwen aus wirtschaftlichen Gründen aus der Veranstaltung zurück. So wurde kurz darauf von aktiven Spielern der p4p e.V. (Players 4 Players Tischfussballvereinigung e.V.) gegründet, um die Turnierserie weiterzuführen.

Nach einem rechtskräftigen Urteil des Hessischen Finanzgerichts vom 23. Juni 2010 (Aktenzeichen 4 K 501/09) kann ein Verein, der Tischfußball betreibt, als gemeinnützig anerkannt werden[1].

Regionale Bezeichnungen im deutschsprachigen Raum [Bearbeiten]

Tischfußball ist in bestimmten Regionen unter anderen Namen als den oben aufgeführten bekannt:

·         In Hannover und Umgebung kennt man den Sport unter dem Namen Krökeln, ein Tischfußballtisch wird dementsprechend als ‘Krökler’ bezeichnet. Der Begriff kommt von der Bezeichnung Krökel für eine Eisenstange im Hannoverschen.

·         In Österreich nennt man es häufig Wuzzeln, in Kärnten Balankan.

·         In der Schweiz ist Tischfußball auch unter den Namen ‘Töggelen’ oder Jöggelen bekannt, in der Ostschweiz (z.B. im Thurgau) sagt man Tschütelichaschtä.

·         In Liechtenstein spricht man von Tschuttikäschtala oder nur Tschüttala

·         Im süddeutschen Raum, vor allem in der Pfalz, wird es als Hackersche bezeichnet.

·         Im westlichen Saarland ist Tischfußball auch unter dem Namen Knack bekannt.

Sportliche Organisationen [Bearbeiten]

Deutschland [Bearbeiten]

Die Tischfußballspieler sind in Deutschland im Deutschen Tischfußball-Bund (DTFB) und im p4p e.V. (Players 4 Players Tischfussballvereinigung e.V.) organisiert. Regelmäßig werden von beiden Organisationen Turniere und Meisterschaften oder Ligabetrieb ausgetragen.

Der DTFB ist der Dachverband der deutschen Landesverbände, die ähnlich wie im Fußball organisiert sind. Die Landesverbände organisieren Landesmeisterschaften und Landesligen und entsenden nach ihren Ranglisten zum einen Spieler zur Deutschen Meisterschaft, die dem DTFB-Pokal ähnlich ist, und zum anderen Ligamannschaften für die 2. und 1. Bundesliga. Über überregionale, von den Landesverbänden durchgeführte, Challenger-Turniere können sich Spieler ebenfalls für die Meisterschaften qualifizieren und bekommen Ranglistenpunkte für die DTFB-Rangliste. Challenger-Turniere können relativ unkompliziert von den einzelnen Vereinen veranstaltet werden. Räumlich finden diese eher im Nordwesten Deutschlands statt. Davon abgesehen gibt es einige größere regionale Ligen (z.B. in Berlin, Freiburg, Hamburg, etc.) in denen sich die Spieler messen können. Ziele des DTFB sind die Anerkennung des Tischfußballs als Sportart und die Förderung des Spitzen-, Breiten- und Jugendsports. Im DTFB sind ca. 6000 Spieler organisiert (Stand 2012), davon kommen ca. 2000 aus dem Saarland.

Der P4P e.V. veranstaltet eine jährliche, überregionale Turnierserie, die dank hoher und garantierter Preisgelder auch internationale Topspieler anzieht. Anders als im Fußball kann hier auch ein Neuling gegen die Weltelite spielen. Die Turniere finden meist in Konferenzhotels an ca. 40 bis 80 Tischen mit ca. 300 bis 1000 Teilnehmern statt. Es werden je mehr als 10 Disziplinen (normalerweise) im Doppel-KO-Modus ausgetragen. Gespielt werden Doppel (zwei gegen zwei) und Einzel (einer gegen einen), jeweils in den drei Leistungsklassen, wobei Hochstarten möglich ist. Das heißt, ein Neuling darf überall teilnehmen. Zusätzlich gibt es noch Damen-Doppel und Einzel, sowie ein DYP.

Getragen von P4P e.V. und DTFB findet 2012/2013 zum zweiten mal die DYP-Tour statt. Dabei finden deutschlandweit sehr viele kleinere (mit z.T. nur 10 bis 20 Teilnehmern) Ranglistenturniere in dem MonsterDYP-Modus statt, bei denen die Teilnehmer Punkte für eine Rangliste sammeln können. Die besten Spieler nehmen dann am Ende an einem Abschlussturnier teil, bei dem um Sach- und Geldpreise gespielt wird. Bei der erstmaligen Austragung 2011/2012 fanden so in 10 Monaten 1007 Turniere an 47 Standorten statt, an denen 2784 Spieler teilgenommen hatten.

International [Bearbeiten]

2002 wurde auf Initiative von acht nationalen Verbänden (Belgien, China, Dänemark, Frankreich, Deutschland, Italien, Großbritannien, USA) die ITSF (International Table Soccer Federation) als weltweiter Dachverband nationaler Verbände gegründet. Ende 2009 gehörten der in Frankreich ansässigen ITSF 60 nationale Verbände an. Die ITSF organisiert internationale Turnierserien und Weltmeisterschaften und hat sich zum Ziel gesetzt, das „Kickern“ olympisch zu machen. Auf diesem Wege wird ebenfalls die Kommerzialisierung des Sports vorangetrieben. Um das zu verwirklichen, versucht der Verband beispielsweise, alle gängigen Tische bezgl. grundsätzlichen Eigenschaften auf einen Nenner zu bringen. Dadurch soll es möglich sein, die Leistungen der Spieler direkt und unabhängig vom gespielten Tisch zu vergleichen. Derzeit gibt es fünf offiziell zugelassene Tische (siehe Tischtypen).

Österreich [Bearbeiten]

In Österreich ist der Tischfußballbund Österreich (TFBÖ) für die Organisation des TFB Sports zuständig. Gespielt wird üblicherweise auf dem Garlando-Tisch, dessen Design seit Regeln [Bearbeiten]

Die wichtigsten Regeln im Turnierbereich [Bearbeiten]

Je nach zugehörigem Verband oder Organisation unterscheiden sich die Regeln in kleinen Details.

·         Gespielt werden meist zwei Gewinnsätze bis fünf Tore, in der Verliererrunde aber auch schon einmal nur ein Satz bis sieben Tore.

·         Bevor der Ball ins Spiel gebracht wird, durch Einwerfen oder Klemmen auf der 5er-Reihe, fragt der ballbesitzende Spieler seinen Gegner, ob er bereit ist. Erst wenn dieser das bestätigt, wird das Spiel begonnen.

·         Die Mannschaft, gegen die das letzte Tor erzielt wurde, erhält das Recht, den Ball aufzulegen oder einzuwerfen, wobei eine Beeinflussung des Balles (anschneiden) erlaubt ist. Dadurch kann der Ball durch das Einwurfloch sicher auf die eigene 5er-Reihe eingeworfen werden.

·         Es ist nicht erlaubt, die Figuren vor und nach dem Ballkontakt beim Schuss um jeweils mehr als 360 Grad zu drehen.

·         Drehen der Stange ohne Ballkontakt ist zwar nicht verboten, kann aber als Ablenkung gewertet werden.

·         Übermäßige Gewalt (am Tisch rütteln oder mit den Figuren anstoßen) ist ebenfalls nicht erlaubt.

·         Beim Schuss müssen beide Hände immer am Griff bleiben.

·         Tore können generell aus jeder Position heraus erzielt werden.

·         Jeder Ball, der hinter die Torlinie gebracht wurde, zählt als Treffer, insbesondere also auch Bälle, die durch die Wucht des Schusses nach Überquerung der Torlinie wieder ins Spielfeld zurückspringen.

·         Ein-Mann-Pässe sind beim Passen des Balles von der 2er- bzw. 1-er auf die 5er- und von 5er- auf die 3er-Stange nicht erlaubt. Der Ball muss, nachdem er kontrolliert (eingeklemmt oder gestoppt) wurde, immer mit einer anderen Figur durchgepasst werden. Auch ruhende Bälle dürfen nicht direkt durchgepasst werden. Weiterhin wird diese Regel in manchen Ligen durch einen Kontakt mit der Bande aufgelöst, in anderen hingegen nicht.

·         Tot ist ein Ball dann, wenn er von keiner Spielfigur erreicht werden kann und ruht. Wie der Ball wieder ins Spiel gebracht wird, ist von Liga zu Liga unterschiedlich. Beispielsweise wird in der P4P-Liga ein toter Ball hinter der 2er-Reihe vom jeweiligen Torwart wieder ins Spiel gebracht. Tote Bälle zwischen den 2er-Stangen des Tisches werden von der Mannschaft mit Einwurfrecht wieder ins Spiel gebracht. Nach Regeln des DTFB wird der Ball wieder in der Mitte eingeworfen oder auf die 5er-Reihe gelegt, wenn er zwischen den 5er-Reihen liegenbleibt, ansonsten an die nächste 2er-Reihe gegeben.

·         Schießt ein Spieler den Ball aus dem Spielfeld heraus, so bekommt die gegnerische Mannschaft den Ball auf den Torwart.

·         Nach jeder Spielunterbrechung (zum Beispiel Time-Outs, tote Bälle, herausgeflogene Bälle) und nach jedem Tor wird der Gegner wieder gefragt, ob er bereit ist.

·         Absichtlich gequetschte Pässe sind verboten.

·         Jede Mannschaft darf Time-Outs nehmen, wie oft und wann ist ebenfalls unterschiedlich.

Typische Amateurregeln [Bearbeiten]

Anzumerken ist, dass auf dem Spielniveau die Regeln regional und international unterschiedlich variiert werden.

·         Früher wurde üblicherweise bis 6 gespielt, da die meisten Automaten 11 Bälle auswarfen. So konnten 6 Tore nicht mehr eingeholt werden (maximales Ergebnis wäre 6:5). Vielerorts gibt es auch Automaten, die nur 9 Bälle auswerfen. Bei fortgeschrittenen Spielern und höherrangigen Turnieren wird generell nur bis 5 gespielt.

·         Die Forder-Regel (in vielen Kneipen angewandt): Derjenige, der (zusammen mit einem Partner) Kicker spielen möchte, während schon zwei andere Teams spielen, kann fordern. Das geschieht, indem man den Einwurfpreis von neuen Bällen auf den Kicker legt (in Deutschland meist ein 50-Cent-Stück), auf den Tisch klopft oder auch mündlich seinen Wunsch zu spielen ausdrückt („Wir fordern!“). Die neu an den Tisch getretene Mannschaft muss das Geld nachwerfen, sobald die noch vorhandenen Bälle verspielt sind. In der Regel gibt das Verliererteam seinen Platz an das fordernde Team ab.

·         Bei einigen Spielern sind Torschüsse von der Mittelstange aus geächtet (auch „betonieren“,„schweißen“ und „holzen“ genannt). Gelegentlich wird auch vereinbart, dass diese nicht zählen (auch „französisch“ genannt, da nach französischen Kneipenregeln Mittelreihenschüsse generell verboten sind). Andere Varianten erkennen solche Tore nur dann nicht an, wenn sie direkt nach einem Anstoß erfolgen.

·         Neben der Einwurfregel wird auch oft mit Anspiel gespielt (auch „Abgabe“, „Anstoß“, „mit Aufteilen“ oder „Fair Play“ genannt). Dabei wird der Ball z. B. durch eine Ecke ins Spiel gebracht, so dass die Mannschaft im Ballbesitz ist, gegen die das letzte Tor fiel. Bei Tischen, die das Hineingreifen in den Spielbereich nicht erlauben (z. B. durch eine Glasplatte), wird das Anspiel durch einen Pass in Reichweite der 5er-Stange der Mannschaft, gegen die das letzte Tor gefallen ist, realisiert.

·         Eine oft zum Spaß angewandte Regel ist, dass, wenn eine Mannschaft (oder ein Spieler) verliert und dabei selbst kein Tor erzielt hat, eine Strafe auferlegt bekommt. Häufige Strafen sind beispielsweise, dass die Verlierer unter dem Kickertisch durchkrabbeln oder der Gewinnermannschaft ein Getränk ausgeben. Solche Strafen werden vor dem Spiel geklärt.

Die wichtigsten Schüsse und Techniken [Bearbeiten]

Viele Spieler klemmen den Ball zwischen Tischplatte und dem Fuß der Spielfigur ein. Entweder „vorne“ – Figur ist nach vorne geneigt – oder „hinten“ – Figur ist nach hinten geneigt. Diese Technik wird oft als „Soccern“ bezeichnet, daher rühren auch diverse Tischnamen. Das Einklemmen des Balles erfordert Griffigkeit des Balles auf der Tischoberfläche und ist somit nicht auf allen Tischmodellen praktizierbar. Die Positionen hinten oder vorne eingeklemmt sind u.a. die Ausgangspunkte für die Schusstechniken „Pin-Shot“ und „Jet“ (s.u.). Eine Alternative zum Einklemmen des Balles ist, den Ball neben dem Fuß der Figur abzulegen und dann aus ruhender Position anzuschieben oder anzuziehen (Push- oder Pull-Shot).

·         Der Pin-shot ist einer der gebräuchlichsten Schüsse in Europa (auch European Pinshot). Der Ball wird mit der mittleren Figur der Stürmerreihe (auch 3er-Reihe oder auch nur 3genannt) vorne oder hinten eingeklemmt und schnell nach rechts oder links gezogen, um am Verteidiger vorbeizukommen. Dabei wird die Figur hinter den Ball gebracht. Sobald der Ball auf einer Höhe mit der Puppe steht, lässt man diese nach vorne schnellen und schießt damit den Ball geradeaus ins Tor. Im Turnierbereich wird der „Pin-Shot“ meist mit der „Open-Hand“-Schusstechnik gespielt. Bei dieser Technik wird die Aushol- und Schussdrehung der Figur nicht aus dem Handgelenk ausgeführt. Der Griff der Stange wird in der „offenen“ Hand geführt und über die Handfläche und/oder den Handballen aus einer kurzen Ab- und anschließender Aufwärtsbewegung des Unterarmes „abgerollt“ (daher rührt auch die frühere Bezeichnung „Abroller“ für diese Schusstechnik). Am Ende der Schussbewegung wird der Griff in den gekrümmten Fingern aufgefangen. Wird der Ball seitwärts sehr schnell bewegt, ist es notwendig eine Gegenzugbewegung mit der Figur zu beschreiben, da sonst der Ball durch die Trägheit abtreiben würde. Die Effizienz dieses Schusses liegt in der hohen Anzahl der Variationen (kurz oder lang, rechts oder links und Kombinationen daraus). Der „Jet“, ein Schuss mit Überschlag – in den U.S.A. „Snake“ genannt – ist ein anderer, bei Spielern sehr beliebter Schuss. Diese Technik wird fast ausschließlich als Torschuss von der mittleren Stürmerfigur eingesetzt. Dabei wird der Ball vorne eingeklemmt und durch eine schnelle Seitwärtsbewegung an eine ungedeckte Position gebracht. Anstatt nun die Figur hinter den Ball zu bewegen, auszuholen und zu schießen, wird sie nach hinten „überschlagen“ und trifft den Ball nach einer Umdrehung. Allerdings ist es sehr wichtig, den Spieler nach dem Ballkontakt abzustoppen, um die oben erwähnte 360-Grad-Regel nicht zu brechen. Beim Jet wird der Griff der Stange an der Handbeuge (Affenklammer) oder noch darüber geführt, durch eine aufwärtige Zugbewegung des Arms über die ganze Handfläche abgerollt und mit in den gekrümmten Fingern aufgefangen (abgestoppt). Dadurch führt die Stange eine Drehung durch. Bei manchen Spielern genießt diese Schusstechnik einen ähnlich schlechten Ruf wie Schüsse von der Mittelreihe. Der „Jet“ wurde vom Deutschen Hans-Friedrich Kircher erfunden und hat in den 1990er Jahren in den USA unter der Bezeichnung Snakeschnelle Verbreitung gefunden und ist dort neben dem Pull-Shot eine der beliebtesten Schusstechniken. Aufgrund seiner Unmittelbarkeit und vergleichsweise einfachen Handhabung verdrängt der Jet bei europäischen Leistungsspielern zunehmend den Pin-Shot. „Snake“ ist bezeichnenderweise der Name des abgebrühten Profi-Kickers aus dem Kult-Film Absolute Giganten von Sebastian Schipper.

·         Ein weiterer weit verbreiteter Schuss ist der Zieher oder auch Pull-shot (oder Schieber / Push-shot). Dabei wird der Ball neben dem Fuß der Figur abgelegt und dann durch Anziehen bzw. Anschieben in eine Richtung beschleunigt. Die Schussbewegung selbst erfolgt durch das Handgelenk. Auf vielen Tischen – wie z. B. dem amerikanischen Tornado oder dem Leonhart Turniersieger (Puppen mit schmalen Füßen) – ist der Zieher einer der beliebtesten Schüsse. Auch hier ist bei einer schnellen Seitwärtsbewegung eine Gegenzugbewegung beim Abschuss des Balles von Vorteil, um ein Abtreiben und damit eine schräge Schussbahn des Balles zu vermeiden. Der Vorteil der Schusstechnik ist es, dass diese sich auf nahezu jedem Tischmodell umsetzen lässt.

·         Bandenschüsse sind prinzipiell von jeder Position aus spielbar. Dabei wird der Ball von der Figur sehr weit außen getroffen (meist mit der Fußkante), was dazu führt, dass der Ball schräg abgeschossen wird. Trifft man den Ball im richtigen Winkel, wird er zunächst gegen eine der Banden und anschließend ins gegnerische Tor treffen. Am häufigsten wird diese Technik von der 2er-Stange des Verteidigers aus eingesetzt.

·         Abquetscher werden wegen der Schussbahn auch „Bananen“ genannt. Für den Abquetscher wird der Ball mit dem Fuß der Puppe hinten eingeklemmt (aber nicht so weit hinten wie beim Pin-shot) und anschließend durch Druck auf den Ball, mit einer gleichzeitigen seitlichen Bewegung, nach vorne gedrückt oder gequetscht. Durch die seitliche Bewegung bekommt der Ball einen Effet, der die Schussbahn krümmt. Dieser Schuss ist eher ein Trickshot und wird auf Turnieren nur selten gespielt.

·         Beim Tic-Tac wird der Ball mit den Seiten der Füße der Figuren einer Stange zwischen diesen hin und her gespielt und ständig in Bewegung gehalten. Der Torschuss erfolgt entweder aus der laufenden Bewegung heraus, wenn der Ball sich vor einer ungedeckten Stelle des Tores befindet, indem eine Figur schnell hinter den Ball bewegt und der Schuss ausgeführt wird (meist aus dem Handgelenk), oder indem der Ball mit einer Figur plötzlich vor eine ungedeckte Lücke gestoßen wird und eine zweite Figur den Schuss ausführt. Auch überraschende Zieher oder Schieber in Gegenrichtung der laufenden Bewegung des Balles sind möglich.

·         Beim Sling-Shot wird der Ball mit dem Fuß einer Puppe seitlich an die Bande gespielt und erst nach dem Abprallen, wenn der Ball wieder zurückkommt, geschossen. Durch den seitlichen Schwung des Balles wird dieser automatisch schräg geschossen. Durch einen Übersteiger vor dem eigentlichen Schuss kann der Gegner leicht verwirrt werden.

·         Der Pass von 5 auf 3 ist im Turnierbereich der oftmals entscheidende Spielzug. Prinzipiell ist der Pass durch jede Lücke der gegnerischen Fünferreihe möglich. Allerdings haben sich zwei Pässe etabliert, der Pass „zur Bande hin“ und zum anderen der „Schrägpass“ oder auch „von der Bande weg“. Bei beiden Pässen ist die Ausgangsposition die zweite Figur an der Bande. Der Pass selbst wird meistens als „Brushpass“ ausgeführt. Dabei wird der Ball mit der Vorderseite des Fußes angeschnitten. Durch den Drall läuft der Ball entweder an der Bande entlang, ohne abzuprallen, oder schräg in Richtung Tor.

Tischtypen [Bearbeiten]

Tischfußballtische unterscheiden sich unter anderem durch die Art der Stangen, das Material und die Form der Puppen (Spielfiguren), die Eigenschaften der Spieloberfläche und durch die Beschaffenheit der Bälle. Abhängig von der Art des Tisches kommen unterschiedliche Techniken zum Einsatz. Weit verbreitete Modelle gibt es meist zusätzlich in einer Version mit Münzgerät, welche dann in Kneipen und anderen öffentlich zugänglichen Orten aufgestellt wird und so zu einer hohen Verbreitung führt. Einige Tische haben Glasplatten, um ein Hineingreifen sowie das unabsichtliche Herausschießen von Bällen zu verhindern.

Der Internationale Tischfussballverband ITSF (International Table Soccer Federation) unterscheidet derzeit zwischen “Offiziellen Tischen”, auf denen vom ITSF organisierte Weltmeisterschaften ausgetragen werden, und “anerkannten Tischen”, auf denen Länderverbände vom ITSF anerkannte Turniere austragen können.

·          

 

 

Foosball Interview with Frederic Collignon

Frédéric, almost all table-soccer players think the same: You are the very best table-soccer player worldwide. Do you know how many cups you have won already?

Wow this is a really nice compliment, thank you very much I really appreciate it but I think it is too much. They are several really good player everywhere.
I don’t know how many cups I got, I m sorry but most of the top Foosball player are full of cups and they don’t know how many they got.

How often do you play/train table-soccer when you’re not on a tournament?

I usually only play if a tournament is coming. I try to be prepared for it. For example is Tornado World is coming I try to play at least 30 min every day 1 month before the tournament. Ofcourse this is an average, some days I will play 2 hours with friends and some days I will take a break.

How many football tables do you have at home and which one do you prefer?

I have one of each ITSF Official tables, the belgium tables and a Lechmarer. I don’t have much time with my job to go out to play so I like to have one of each table to play on it when I want it. This is much easier for me ofcourse. I don’t have any preference, every table plays different and I like some characteristics of each one. 

Nobody masters the Pin Shot on a Tornado as good you do. Can you give some tips to other Tornado players how to perform the pin shot best on this table?

The pinshot on Tornado is not the main shot cause it is much easier to shot a roll over. I think you need to learn the pin shot on other table first. When you master the pin shot on Tecball for example, you can start to do it on Tornado, you will adapat easier. It is really difficult to learn to shot it on tornado so I recommand everyone to learn the shot on Tecball, Lechmarer, … and later, you can adapt it on Tornado.
It will also take much more time to learn the pin shot than to learn a rollover so it needs patient and discipline. 

Und wie sieht es beim Blocken an der Fünf aus… Kannst du anderen Tischfussball-Spielern Tipps geben worauf man achten sollte um einen Pass erfolgreich zu blocken?

The 5 D is for sure one of the big keys of the game. They are several D you can use and you have to use the right one against the right opponent. First you have to know your opponent, it is much easier, if you know him you know what you have to do.

The problem appears when you don’t know your opponent or if you haven’t see him play for a while and his game has changed. At this point you have to be able to do a certain strategie to learn as quick as possible his way to think and what he is looking for and which are his lovely passes. 

The first game is really important to study ur opponent after the first game you have to have learned something, you have to be able to have a plan for the rest of the match.

The five D is really to complicate to explain here, but if you know the five D has nothing to do with luck or… and you realise the five D is more a head games, next time you will look your defence on 5 in another way and you will improve.

The defence has nothing to do with talent, a smart rookie player can have a much better D than some pro player cause he understand it.

An other point, if you can not block someone five and you have tried everything so this player outsmart you on the five, so accept it and forget about defence and concentrate only on your five offence, try to pass every ball and score it, in other word put pression on him and you will see ur five D coming alive from nowhere. 

You’re not only the best offensive player, you’re also the best defensive player. How do you move your players when your opponent has his ball on his 3… Do you concentrate on anything special?

The defense against the three rod has nearly the same philosophie than the 5 D. How you move your man is not important it is more about where you are when the shot takes off. I mean if you are where you wanted to be it is already a good point. Too many keeper are out of position and most of the time even if they know which shot is coming they still don’t block it. So try to have a plan, you keep with it and you have to be where you want to be. Don’t panic when it gets close. you can also use ur speed against slow shot, you can raise some player in their weak side, this is the easiest way to block but if you can not raise … you better have a plan before the match, always be prepared. you also have to look for any tells, some players change their hands for certain shot ( hello Uli hahaha ), just a joke, he still scores a high percentage ), other players have an other position on the ball for certain shots, others have bad body language … anything can help. 

What was your nicest tournament success?

All my favorite one are Tornado Worlds in doubles. To me this is the best title I could get but all the title has a good feelings even the small one, they all count. If I have to pick one or 2, I will say Tornado Worlds 1998 in doubles ( my first one ) and Tornado Worlds 2001 in doubles, both with my partner Todd Loffredo.

What was your worst lost in professional table soccer?

Just like all the victory feels good, every lost hurts somewhere. I can not tell for sure which one hurts the most but maybe Tornado Worlds 2003 in doubles, we have won five years in a row and we lost the 6th ones in 2003, it was the end of a serie and I did not like it lol.

Who besides you is the best table soccer player in the world? And who is the best German table soccer player?

It depends on which table you are talking and under which rules. But we are going to talk in general. Anyway the best player ever plays this game is by far and without any contest Todd Loffredo, this is a no brainer. He is way above the rest. Beside him, everyone know that Tony, Billy and now Ryan and Rob are the best all around players. You can not forget Jamal who is one of the best multitable players in the World too.

In germany, you have a lot of player who are close to each other, again Jamal is the best multitable player in Germany rightnow. But Timo, Marc Balic, Johannes Wahle are the new upcoming players. Thierry Muller is probably the best goalie in Germany but also one of the best forward if he believes more in himself. Germany has a lot of good players like Ronny Falk, Franck Brauns, Bjorn Hofmann… . By the way, Szule is not from Germany, right??? lol, He doesn’t count in my list of German players, he is from Switzerland for me.

Where do you see table soccer in future? Do you think table soccer will ever become an Olympic sport?

I have no idea what the futur will be for table soccer cause they are to many factors whom are involved like the onlines games, poker … All this new games are fun and takes a lot of time, it is difficult to tell someone it is better to play Foosball instead of call of duty for example. Foosball has all it needs to become a sport like darts, snooker… but it is not enough rightnow, we will see what the furtur will tell. ITSF is working on it, I hope they will succeed.

What are your plans for the upcoming years and can you imagine working at ITSF after your career?

My plan rightnow is trying to improve my game, like always. I’m going to try to win the next my match I ll play and so on. I m planning of going to the Bundensliga if I have the time to go. I already work for ITSF, im in 2 commisions already, the rules and the technics of the tables. I don’t think I can do more than this for the moment. I m too busy.

Table Soccer Tips

Rules

·         Despite table soccer’s reputation as an informal game, there are many players who treat it like any other regulated sport. The International Table Soccer Federation has an extensive list of official rules and regulations. Many of these rules do not necessarily apply to informal games, but knowing the basics will help you to improve as a player. Spinning of the rods, jarring the table, reaching into the area of play and distracting your opponent are all against the official rules. Abiding by these rules will help you to focus upon positive table soccer techniques.

Passing

·         Mastering the passing technique is all about practice. Your passing skills will increase the more you play, but it is best to practice without any opposition, so that you can concentrate solely on passing technique and angles without having to worry about defending. The Foos Manchu website recommends lifting up the opposing player bars, allowing you to pass back and forth between your own players unobstructed.

Defense

·         According to the KLS Game Tables website, your main defensive aim is to keep the ball from your opponents striker row. Try to keep one of your men in front of the ball at all times, particularly in midfield and defense. Keep a close eye on your opponent and try to figure out his strategy. You can then try to adapt your defensive play to counter and frustrate your opponent’s preferred attacking moves.

Attack

·         Attacking table soccer is all about scoring goals. Passing and controlling the ball should be used as a means to get the ball to your front two rows from where you can take a shot at goal. “Mixing up your offensive attack by using multiple shots during a game is a very good approach to any offensive strategy,” says the Das FoosMaster website. Vary your play to diversify your shooting angles and distances. This will make your opponent more wary, forcing her into a more defensive style.

Table Selection

·         Table selection becomes increasingly important as your table soccer skills increase. A poor table is a great leveler, making it difficult for a good player to control a game against a lesser opponent. If a table is not level, or it is warped in any way, then your passing abilities will not give you such a noticeable advantage. If you have a selection of tables to choose from, test each one for faults before choosing the match table.


Foosball Tips

When it comes to leisurely pastimes, Foosball/Table Soccer is the most cutthroat you can get. Since we at  here strive for only the most extreme life experiences, it is natural that our office features a Foosball table and a highly competitive roster of Foos combatants.* With fierce competition comes the need for self-discipline, so we’ve come up with a few guidelines that have (so far) protected our office culture from the violence and chaos lurking behind every game of Foosball.

1. Don’t take “no” for an answer. If you have a challenger in your sights, it is within your rights to do whatever you can to make them stop working and come play a game with you. They know they want to, and so do you. Taunting, jokes about their mom, and questioning their manliness/womanliness are all very effective ways to initiate an invigorating match.

2. Carb up. In sports requiring moderate-to-no exercise, daily food intake is key to victory (and, coincidentally, survival). Tony Emerson, SEO Analyst and Bank Shot Expert at SpareFoot, has some very specific nutritional advice: “When training up for a big Foos match, I aim for a 40/30/30 protein/carbs/fat ratio. On match day, I switch that up to 30/40/30 to ensure there’s enough glycogen in my cells for a grueling game. In terms of supplementation, creatine, whey protein and fish oil are the obvious must-haves.” Or, make a sandwich or something.

3. Find your shot and stick with it. If you master a shot in the face of all opponents, you will be able to vault over much of your competition. Cheers of “There he goes again!” and “He just pulled another [your name here]!” will echo the halls of Foosball Fame, and your name will be placed among the pantheon of Foosball Greats like Lee Peppard, founder of the first Foosball Tour and paragon of having too much time on one’s hands. A few classic foosball shots to make your own:

·         The Push/Pull Shot: A staple of most regular players, this usually involves your three-man attacking row. Quick and to the point, the goal is to quickly pull or push the ball into position and let it fire.

·         The Bank Shot: This shot requires a familiarity with the laws of physics to fully master. As Newton’s Second Law states, “Any object, if kicked, will bounce off the wall into a goal, hopefully.” Tony weighed in on his go-to shot: “When the standard push shots and pull shots are consistently getting blocked by an opponent, bank shots are a slightly lower-percentage shot that does a better job of sneaking past the defense.”

·         The Mirror Shot. The most satisfying offensive move in the game, this involves careful shadowing of your opponent’s goalie and defenders. If they attempt a pass or a shot from one of these defensive positions, slap it into their goal and make a “Oh no you didn’t” face.

4. Physics is just a theory. It’s also a fickle mistress in the land of Foosball. If it’s not your day, gravity will create a funnel through which even a baby could hit your goal. There is nothing you can do when this happens except follow the next tip:

5. Take everything personally. Foosball is 90% attitude, and the only way to win is to couple a steely resolve with the emotional turbulence of, say, the honey badger . One mustn’t “congratulate” his or her “opponent” on a “great score.” Rather, the offender should be seen as a cheater and a butthead. He must have had an inside tip as to the lean of the foosball table, and he’s probably all Juggernauted-out on steroids. Insult his mom in the spirit of the game. But no matter how high emotions flare, everything can be resolved with a post-game beer.

If your office loves the sport but doesn’t have the room to indulge, consult your local self-storage manager for help! A storage unit provides the perfect solitary setting for explicit Foos-related insults.

Do you have a group of Foosers who compare to the SpareFoot team? Tell us about your own office Foosball experiences below!

*It should be noted that SpareFoot employees work upwards of 10 hours a day, cranking away at our never-ending to-do lists. Startups are intense, so we need a break sometimes. Enter Foos.

Langırtta Magnus Etkisi

Magnus etkisi adı ile bilinen fizik kuramının langırt vuruşları üzerindeki etkilerini araştıran bir çalışmaya başladık. Tüm langırt teorisyenlerin ve pratisyenlerinin konuya ciddiyetle eğilmelerini hem langırt oyuncularının yüksek zekalı kişiler olması isteğimiz hem de langırt ve bilimsel düşünceyi at başı görmek arzumuzdan dolayı talep ediyoruz.

Saygılarımızla..

www.langirt.org

İZMİR GOL TABLE SOCCER CLUB REGULATIONS

GÜLEÇ OYUN TABLE SOCCER CLUB  (GOL)

GOL History

It can be assumed that GOL has been initially established when the table soccer site www.langirt.org was founded in in İzmir in 2007. İzmir table soccer activities had been made under lead of Mr. Burak Havuk and Mr. Murat Mutlu as founders of the said internet site. These activities have won a national quality in a short period despite many obstacles related to the sport. Within a couple of years İzmir has recruited a young generation of table soccer enthusiasts, including Medical Dr. Salter Alagöz and Medical Dr. İlker Adıgüzel, and the movement accelerated. Mr. Havuk has left the group in these years due to his post graduate works. It should be known that, before İzmir table soccer movement the table soccer had been nearly extinct in Turkey.

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